Last weekend I made it in to Edinburgh. After a rather uneventful weekend previous, I was itching to get out of Aberdeen and have an adventure. I set out with just one companion, another American student named Anna, early on Saturday morning. The train may have been passing through beautiful countryside but I was oblivious to this as I had a difficult time keeping my eyes open to marvel at it.
Immediately upon emerging from the depths of the train station onto the streets of Edinburgh I noticed a difference from Aberdeen. Most obvious was the color of the city: not grey. Secondly, more tourists. Thirdly, the vibe and atmosphere was more welcoming. Edinburgh, a bigger city and the capitol of Scotland, has more hustle and bustle and more things to do and see.
We started off the day by hiking to the top of Arthur's Seat(251m/823ft), an extinct volcano in the middle of
Holyrood Park, which has been a royal park since the
twelfth century (according to my handy travel guide). It was windy, gorgeous, and populated with many people on walks with their dogs (may have made me imagine how much fun mine would have running from hill to hill :) ). Standing at the top, all (or enough) of Edinburgh was laid out before us: the tightly packed buildings, chapel spires, random monuments, castle, and hazy blue bay of the North Sea. Most remarkable was not what could be seen but what could be heard; the notes of a bagpipe drifted all the way up from the piper's post on High Street: men and boys in tartan took shifts playing the pipes all day from a central location and you could hear him from the most unexpected places.
Holyrood Park could have easily entertained me for the rest of the day, but we headed back down to tour the Palace of
Holyroodhouse, the residence of the Queen when she is in Scotland and the former home of the infamous Mary Queen of Scots. Synopsis: rich royal people in olden times make pretty houses. We weren't allowed to take pictures inside, but I can assure you it was very ornate and if you ever go see any palace it is probably
comparable in beauty and quality, just
substitute era and style. But extremely cool to say I have been there and worth the visit.
We took a winding, scenic route back to our hostel and rested briefly before seeking out a place to eat. Our first lead happened to have stopped serving food (no bar menu or drunken munchies here- places stop serving food by 6 or 7 at night) so we wandered the streets with no particular destination in mind, and stumbled upon the Elephant House, the cafe where
JK Rowling wrote a considerable amount of chapters of Harry Potter, including the very first lines she ever wrote! So of course we ate there, and both of us tried Haggis for the very first time. Anna said it tasted like some kind of Polish sausage she was used to eating; I am less
culinarily imaginative and can only offer the meager description that tasted like some kind of spiced meat and say that I would definitely eat it again.
I was insistent on finding a place that had good folk music and no cover charge, so we went to Sandy Bell's, a very small pub with a demographic of older locals. Music didn't officially start for an hour after we got there, but one of the musicians was playing around on his fiddle for a few of his friends. I milked a malt whiskey and a couple bottles of cider (so delicious) both very Scottish drinks of choice. We met up with an acquaintance there and on our way back to the hostel he took us in to the University of Edinburgh student union . . . four bars, a cafe, a nightclub, goodness knows what else, but Edinburgh sure is a big and lively school.
Sunday we went to a service in St. Giles Cathedral . . . the service wasn't much to capture my attention but luckily I have a
fetish for stained glass. We walked the Royal Mile, stopped in maybe 7 different stores that all sold the same touristy thing, including tartans, of which I bought no more than postcards as the exchange rate is a sly little bastard.
We exhausted Edinburgh Castle, which was quite fascinating as castles often are, full of
tourists; artifacts, including the stone of destiny (a rock as old as any other, only they lugged this one around so Kings could ceremonially sit on it to be crowned King of Scotland -if I sound a little dry humoured here, yes, but I do think ceremonial rocks are cool!), the crown jewels (ridiculously sparkly), sceptre, and sword;
National War Memorial (more cool stained glass); and museums of history and war. Edinburgh Castle also still functions as a base for something military I believe.
Annnd besides a brief jaunt to
Greyfriar's Kirk, an old
cemetery where famous people are buried, we headed back to the train station and thus ended our full weekend in Edinburgh.
If I told you more I will have no stories to tell in person. But I will end with saying that the city of Edinburgh had an atmosphere more to my taste than Aberdeen and if I had more time or money I would love to go back and explore . . .